You see influencers and artists rocking that cool, scrunched-up look¹ on their jeans. You try to replicate it with your own, but they just look baggy, sloppy, and unintentional.

To create stacked jeans², you need two key things: a very long inseam (length) and a very narrow, tapered leg opening. The extra fabric has nowhere to go over your shoe, so it's forced to bunch up, creating the "stacks."

The insight I read online put it perfectly: you need stiff, long, and tapered jeans. This trend is all about specific proportions. At my denim factory³, DiZNEW, when a brand asks us for a "stacked" style, they provide very precise technical specs.

It's not a look that happens by accident. Over my 20 years in this business, I've learned that the most stylish looks are often the most engineered. Stacked jeans are a perfect example.

We don't just make them longer; we control the fit from the thigh all the way down to the ankle to achieve that specific, scrunchy silhouette.

What makes jeans stacked?

You see jeans that bunch up around the ankles in a very deliberate, stylish way. But when you try scrunching up your own pants, they just look messy and fall down.

The stacked effect is a direct result of two design features working together: an inseam that is much longer than your actual leg, and a leg opening that is too narrow to fall over your shoe. The extra fabric can't go down, so it stacks up.

Think of it like a physics problem. You have a fixed amount of space—your leg—and an excess amount of material. The material needs somewhere to go. The narrow leg opening⁴ acts as a dam, stopping the flow of fabric.

As a result, the fabric backs up, folding over itself to create the stacks. At my factory, the formula is precise. For example, a client like the designer Dean will specify a jean with a 36-inch or even 38-inch inseam (for someone who normally wears a 32), but pair it with a tiny 5.5-inch leg opening.

A standard jean's leg opening is closer to 7 or 8 inches, which would just slide right over the shoe. Fabric stiffness also helps.

As the insight I read suggested, stiffer denim holds the sharp creases of the stacks much better than soft, drapey denim.

Key Component	Role in Stacking	Typical Measurement
Inseam (Length)	Provides the excess fabric needed to create stacks.	36" to 38"+ (Much longer than standard)
Leg Opening (Taper)	Stops the fabric from falling over the shoe.	5" to 6" (Very narrow)
Fabric Stiffness	Helps the stacks hold their shape and look defined.	12oz+ denim, sometimes starched.

Should you size up or size down in stacked jeans?

You are ready to buy a pair of stacked jeans, but the sizing is confusing. You wonder if you need to size up to get the extra length, but worry that will make the waist too big.

You should always buy your true waist size⁵. Stacked jeans are designed and manufactured with a standard-fitting waist and a deliberately extended inseam. Sizing up will make the waist, seat, and thighs baggy, ruining the intended skinny or slim silhouette.

This is a critical point that many people get wrong. The "stacked" part of the jean is all about the length, which the brand has already added for you. Think of it like buying a suit jacket.

If you have long arms, you look for a "Long" or "Tall" size, you don't just buy a jacket that's two sizes too big everywhere else. Stacked jeans work the same way.

The brand has designed them to fit you perfectly in the waist and hips, while providing inseams of 36" or more. If you size up your waist from a 32 to a 34, the jeans will sag, the pockets will sit too low, and the slim fit in the thighs will become a baggy fit.

The entire look is based on a slim, sharp silhouette that breaks into stacks at the ankle. A baggy waist and seat completely undermine that intentional style. Stick to your true waist size and trust the brand has handled the length.

How can I make my regular jeans stacked?

You have a pair of regular jeans that you love the fit and wash of. You want the stacked look but you don't want to go out and buy a brand new, purpose-built pair.

You cannot add length, but you can have a tailor aggressively taper the leg from the knee down. By making the leg opening extremely narrow, you can stop the fabric from falling over your shoe, forcing it to bunch up and create a stacked look.

This is a great DIY or custom option if you have a pair of jeans with a straight or slim leg. The key is to create that "dam" at the ankle that I mentioned earlier. You are essentially retrofitting your jeans to have one of the two key components of a stacked jean.

A good tailor can easily do this. They will sew a new inseam, bringing the leg opening in from a standard 7-8 inches down to a very tight 5-6 inches.

Once this is done, the jeans will no longer be able to fall over your sneakers, and whatever slack you have in the length will start to bunch up.As the user insight cleverly suggested, you can enhance this effect by applying spray starch.

Starching the jeans and ironing them will make the denim stiffer, helping those new stacks form sharp, defined creases. Just be realistic—this method won't create dramatic, knee-high stacks like a purpose-built pair, but it will give you a very cool, scrunched-up effect at the ankle.

What shoes do you wear with stacked jeans?

You've finally got the perfect stacked jeans. But when you put them on with your favorite shoes, the whole look falls apart and looks awkward instead of cool and intentional.

The best shoes are low-profile or classic mid-top sneakers. They provide a clean, solid base for the stacks to sit on top of. Avoid bulky high-tops or boots, as they will compete with the jeans and create a messy, jumbled look.

The whole point of stacked jeans is to showcase the stacks. The jeans are the main event, and your shoes should be the supporting act. The goal is to have the stacks fall cleanly onto the shoe, creating a deliberate visual break⁶.

My designer friend Dean always emphasizes the importance of a clean silhouette. If the shoe tongue is too big or the collar is too high, the jean leg will fight with it, and you'll lose that sharp, stacked effect. You'll just get a messy pile of denim and leather.

You need a shoe that gives the jeans a clear "landing pad." Classic court sneakers, simple low-tops, and iconic mid-tops that aren't too puffy are the perfect choice. They anchor the look without getting in the way.

Shoe Style	Why it Works (or Doesn't)	Best for Stacking?
Low-Top Sneakers (e.g., AF1 Lows)	Provides a clean, flat surface for stacks to sit on.	Excellent
Mid-Top Sneakers (e.g., Jordan 1s)	Collar is usually slim enough for jeans to sit over or on.	Excellent
Chunky "Dad" Sneakers	Works if the silhouette is low, but can be tricky.	Good
Bulky High-Tops / Skate Shoes	The large tongue and padded collar interfere with the stacks.	Avoid
Tall Boots	The jean leg and boot will clash, creating a sloppy look.	Avoid

Conclusion

To master the stacked jeans look, focus on a long inseam and a tight ankle opening. Always buy your true waist size and pair them with low-profile sneakers for a clean, sharp silhouette.

---