You're in a store, running your hand over different pairs of jeans. They all feel different, but you're not sure if what you're feeling signals real quality or just a temporary, chemically-induced softness.

Yes, you can tell a lot about denim just by feeling it. High-quality denim feels substantial yet comfortable, with a tight, even weave. However, the true test of quality involves both your sense of touch and a close visual inspection of the fabric, color, and stitching.

In my two decades of running a denim factory, I've handled literally millions of meters of denim fabric. Your hands can tell you a great deal about a fabric's potential. But the most revealing moment is after that raw fabric is cut, sewn, and put through its first wash.

That's when the denim's true character comes out. It’s when a great fabric becomes a great pair of jeans, and a poor one reveals all its flaws. Let's break down exactly what you should be looking for and feeling for, so you can spot the difference.

How can you tell if denim is high-quality?

You want to buy a pair of jeans that will last. But you know that a high price doesn't always guarantee high quality. How do you spot the real deal?

Look for a clean fabric surface with a gentle sheen and a rich, even color. It should feel smooth and strong, with a distinct cotton feel. High-quality denim also features sturdy, consistent stitching and solid hardware.

When designers like Dean send me their specifications, they are looking for a specific set of characteristics that signal quality. You can use the same checklist a professional uses. The first thing is a visual check.

The fabric surface should be clean and have a slight, natural luster, not a cheap, shiny coating. The color should be deep and vibrant. Next, trust your hands. The fabric should feel smooth and comfortable, with a strong cotton texture.

It should feel substantial, not thin or flimsy. The final check is in the construction. Look at the stitching. Is it tight, straight, and consistent?

Are the buttons and rivets made of solid metal, or do they feel light and cheap? After we do a wash test¹ at my factory, these are the signs that tell me we're working with a superior material.

Quality Indicator	High-Quality Denim
Look	Clean surface, slight sheen, rich and even color.
Feel	Smooth but substantial, strong cotton feel, good recovery.
Construction	Tight and even stitching, solid metal hardware.
Wear	Breathable, comfortable, and molds to your body over time.

Which brand has the best quality denim?

You just want to buy the best. But with hundreds of brands all claiming to have the best quality, the choice feels overwhelming and confusing.

There is no single "best" brand for denim quality. "Best" depends entirely on your needs. Japanese brands excel at raw selvedge², while brands like A.P.C. focus on modern fits and washes. The best brand is the one that meets your specific criteria.

This is the question I get asked most often. People want a simple answer, but the truth is more complicated. The "best" quality is not a single standard. It's about finding the right product for the right purpose. Think of it in categories.

For the absolute purist who loves raw denim, the "best" brands are often found in Japan. They use old-fashioned shuttle looms to create fabrics with incredible character and durability.

For someone looking for reliable, everyday quality, a legacy brand³ like Levi's or Lee offers fantastic value and consistency. Their quality is built on decades of experience.

For a fashion-forward individual, a brand like Nudie Jeans might be "best" because they focus on innovative, sustainable materials and modern silhouettes.The brand that a designer like Dean considers "best" for a specific collection will change based on the look he wants to achieve.

The ultimate goal is not to find the one brand everyone agrees on, but to find the brand that makes the perfect jeans for you.

How can you tell cheap denim?

You are tempted by a really low price on a pair of jeans. But you worry they will stretch out, fade badly, or fall apart. How do you spot the red flags?

Cheap denim often feels stiff like cardboard or unnaturally thin. The color appears dull and flat, and the fabric surface might be fuzzy or have small pills. It will also have inconsistent stitching and flimsy hardware.

In my factory, we can spot low-grade denim instantly. First is the feel. It's often very stiff, not because it's high-quality raw denim, but because it's treated with cheap starches to give it a false sense of weight.

Once you wash it, it becomes limp and thin. The color is another big giveaway. Cheap dyes look flat and one-dimensional, lacking the rich, deep tones of quality indigo.

The surface of the fabric often looks rough or "hairy" because it's made from shorter, weaker cotton fibers that are already breaking. Sometimes, the worst offenders even have a strange chemical or mildewy smell. This is a sign of poor finishing processes.

When you put all these signs together—a rough surface, a dull color, and a stiff feel—you are almost certainly looking at a pair of jeans that won't last.

How can you tell if it's denim?

The word "denim" is used everywhere. Some pants that are called "jeans" feel more like leggings. How do you know if you are looking at real denim?

Look for the clear diagonal twill weave⁴ on the fabric's surface. This is the most important characteristic of true denim. Also, the inside of the fabric should be significantly lighter than the outside.

This is a great technical question. I've seen many fabrics that are simply dyed blue and sold as "denim." There are two simple tests to see if it's the real thing. First, get close and look for the weave.

True denim is a twill fabric, which means it has very fine, diagonal lines running across it. If the weave looks like a simple square grid, it's not denim. If there is no visible weave at all and it feels very stretchy, it's likely a knit fabric, which is used to make jeggings.

The second test is to check the color on the inside. In traditional denim production, only the lengthwise "warp" threads are dyed indigo. The crosswise "weft" threads are left white. This means the outside of the fabric is dark blue, while the inside is much lighter.

If the fabric is the same solid color on both sides, it's not traditional denim. It's likely a different type of twill that has been "piece-dyed⁵" after weaving.

Conclusion

Feeling the fabric is the first step in judging jeans. But true quality is found by also looking at the weave, the color, and the construction details. Trust your instincts, but always inspect closely.

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