You have a pair of jeans that are too long or feel a bit outdated. You love the trendy frayed look, but designer pairs are just too expensive.

You can easily create raw hem jeans¹ by measuring your ideal length, making a clean cut with sharp scissors, and then fraying the edge by washing the jeans or manually pulling the threads.

In my two decades running the DiZNEW denim factory, I’ve seen countless trends, but the raw hem is one that never truly fades away.

It’s a style that adds a personal, effortless touch to any pair of jeans. My clients, like the designer Dean, often request specific fraying techniques to achieve a certain look.

The great thing is, you don’t need a factory to do it. The best techniques use simple tools you already have. I'm going to show you how to get a professional-looking raw hem right in your own home.

How can you make a raw hem look authentic?

You cut your jeans, but now the bottom just looks like a blunt, messy cut. It doesn't have that cool, naturally worn-in look you see on jeans in stores.

For an authentic look, start by washing and drying the jeans to pre-shrink them. After cutting, throw them in the washer and dryer again to create a soft, natural fray that looks genuinely worn over time.

The secret to an authentic fray lies in understanding how denim is made. Denim has vertical blue threads (the warp) and horizontal white threads (the weft).

A natural fray happens when those horizontal white threads are removed or worn away, leaving the vertical blue threads to hang like a fringe.

A sloppy cut with dull scissors will just tear both sets of threads, creating a chunky, ugly edge. A clean cut with sharp scissors creates the perfect starting point for a beautiful fray.

From there, you have two main roads you can take, each creating a slightly different, but equally authentic, look.

Fraying Method	How It Works	The Final Look
Washing Machine	The tumbling action and heat of the machine naturally loosen the weft threads.	A soft, fluffy, slightly uneven fray. Very natural.
Tweezers	You manually pull out the horizontal (white) threads one by one.	A clean, fringe-like fray. Very controlled and precise.

How do you make an unfinished hem?

You're all set to transform your jeans, but you feel nervous about making the first cut. You want a clear plan to make sure you don't cut them crooked or too short.

To make a perfect unfinished hem, first put the jeans on and mark your desired length with chalk. Then, take them off, lay them flat, and cut about an inch below your mark to leave room for fraying.

In the factory, precision is everything. A millimeter off can change the entire look of a garment. You should bring that same mindset to your project. The most important rule is to measure twice and cut once. Let's walk through the foolproof steps.

Step 1: Find Your Length

First, put the jeans on with the shoes you plan to wear with them. This is crucial as shoes can change how the length looks. Stand in front of a mirror and use a piece of chalk or a pin to mark where you want the final hem to sit.

Step 2: Mark Your Cutting Line

Take the jeans off and lay them on a flat surface. Use a ruler to draw a straight, solid line across the leg, about one inch below your first mark. This extra inch is your "fray allowance."

Step 3: The Pro Trick for Even Legs

Here's a simple trick we use to guarantee perfect symmetry. Fold the jeans in half lengthwise, carefully lining up the waistbands and seams.

With the jeans folded, you can cut through both legs at the same time along your marked line. This makes it physically impossible for them to be uneven. Use sharp fabric scissors for a clean cut that will fray beautifully.

Is it okay to raw hem jeans?

You like the raw hem style, but you're worried about durability. You're afraid your jeans will keep unraveling with every wash until they are unwearable capris.

Yes, it is perfectly okay to raw hem jeans. Denim has a strong twill weave that prevents it from unraveling completely. If you want to stop the fray at a certain point, you can sew a simple "lock stitch" just above the edge.

This is a valid concern, but denim is one of the few fabrics that is strong enough for this style. The diagonal pattern of the twill weave is incredibly sturdy.

While it will fray, it won't just fall apart like a loosely woven fabric would. The fraying will naturally slow down after a few washes as the threads settle.

However, if you want total control, the lock stitch² is the ultimate professional solution. Simply use a sewing machine or a needle and thread to sew a single, straight line of stitching about half an inch above the edge.

This creates an invisible barrier that stops the fray from traveling any further up the leg. It gives you the casual style of a raw hem with the durability of a finished one. It's the best of both worlds.

How do I fray the bottom of my jeans?

You've successfully cut the jeans, but now you just have a blunt edge. You're ready to create that cool, textured frayed look, but you're not sure which technique is best.

The easiest method is to wash and dry them on high heat, which creates a natural fray. For more control and a fringed look, use tweezers to pull out the horizontal white threads one by one along the cut edge.

Creating the fray is where you become the designer. The amount and style of the fray determines the final attitude of the jeans. We use different tools in the factory to achieve different levels of distressing, and you can do the same at home.

Fraying Tool	Technique	Best For Creating
Washer/Dryer	Tumble on a normal or heavy cycle with high heat.	A soft, subtle, and natural-looking fray.
Tweezers	Gently pull out the horizontal white (weft) threads from the edge.	A clean, uniform fringe. Perfect for a neater look.
Sandpaper	Rub a coarse-grit sandpaper3 along the cut edge to rough up the fibers.	A worn-in, distressed look with some light fraying.
Wire Brush	Gently brush the cut edge to aggressively separate the threads.	A heavy, very textured, and messy fray.

For the most classic frayed look, I recommend starting with the washing machine. After they come out of the dryer, see how you like it. If you want more, you can always enhance the look by using tweezers⁴ to pull out a few more threads or sandpaper to rough up the edges. Start small; you can always add more distressing later.

Conclusion

Creating your own raw hem is a simple way to update any pair of jeans. With just a pair of scissors and a little patience, you can create a custom style.

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