You're trying on jeans, and instead of a quick, smooth zipper, you're fumbling with a row of stubborn buttons. It feels bulky under your shirt, looks unflattering, and seems like a completely outdated feature in a modern garment.

Some jeans have buttons instead of zippers as a nod to tradition, durability, and a specific aesthetic. This design, called a "button fly," was the original method for securing jeans and is favored by denim purists for its strength and the unique way it wears over time.

I completely understand the frustration with button flies. From a purely practical standpoint, the modern zipper is a superior piece of engineering.It's faster and creates a flatter front, which is something a designer like Dean often aims for in a sleek design.

However, the world of denim is built on heritage. The button fly is not just a closure; it's a statement. It tells a story of authenticity and old-school craftsmanship. It’s a deliberate choice to prioritize tradition over convenience, and it fundamentally changes both the look and feel of the jean.

What is it called when jeans have buttons instead of zippers?

You see this feature on vintage or high-end denim but might not know the correct term for it. Describing it as "the ones with buttons down the front" feels clumsy and unprofessional.

When jeans have a series of buttons for the front closure instead of a zipper, it is officially called a "button fly." This was the standard design for the first blue jeans before the zipper was widely adopted.

The button fly is the original. When Levi Strauss & Co. patented the first blue jeans in 1873, this is how they were made.Zippers weren't common on trousers until decades later.

For a long time, the button fly was the only option. In our factory, when we get a tech pack that specifies a button fly, we know the designer is intentionally aiming for a vintage or "heritage" feel. It’s a signal that they value authenticity.

The term itself is part of the core language of denim, and knowing it separates casual fans from serious professionals. It’s a small detail that carries a lot of history and meaning in the industry.

Is button fly better than zipper?

You're deciding on the hardware for a new design and weighing the pros and cons. A zipper is modern and sleek, but the button fly has a rugged appeal. Which one is truly the superior choice?

Neither is better; they are just different. A button fly is far more durable and molds to the body over time. A zipper is faster, easier to use, and provides a much flatter, cleaner front.

This is a constant debate, and your point about the "bulge" is exactly why many designers prefer zippers. That bulk comes from the construction of the fly placket.

You need multiple layers of thick denim to support the buttonholes and hide the buttons, and that creates dimension. I've counted them myself—it's often four layers of fabric right at the front. A zipper, with its thin tape, allows for a much flatter construction.

For someone who wants a sleek, modern look, the zipper is the clear winner. However, from a durability standpoint, the button fly is bulletproof. A button can be sewn back on, but a broken zipper tooth can ruin the entire garment.

Dive Deeper: The Head-to-Head Comparison

Feature	Button Fly	Zipper Fly
Aesthetic	Creates a more dimensional, "lived-in" look. Can appear bulky.	Provides a flat, smooth, and clean front profile.
Durability	Extremely durable. Individual buttons can be easily replaced if they fail.	Less durable. A single broken tooth or a failed slider often requires major repair.
Wear & Patina	Creates unique vertical fades along the placket as it wears.	Does not contribute to the fading or aging pattern of the denim.
Ease of Use	Slower to open and close. Often requires two hands, as you mentioned.	Fast, convenient, and easy to operate with one hand.
Comfort	Molds to the wearer's body shape over time for a custom fit.	Maintains a consistent shape but can sometimes pinch or feel rigid.

Why do jeans still have buttons on them?

In an age of advanced fasteners, the simple metal button seems almost primitive. Why does this component, especially the big one at the top, continue to be the industry standard on every single pair?

Jeans still have buttons for strength and tradition. The main top button, called a shank button, is incredibly strong and necessary to anchor the waistband. A button fly is then a conscious style choice for authenticity.

The most important button on any pair of jeans is the one at the very top of the fly. This isn't just a regular button; it's a shank button. It's a two-piece rivet that is pressed through the fabric, making it immensely strong.

A denim waistband is a high-stress area, and a standard sewn-on button would pop off almost immediately. This shank button provides a rock-solid anchor point that can withstand years of pulling and strain.

So even on a zipper-fly jean, that top button is non-negotiable for quality construction. The other buttons in a button fly are an optional choice, but that main waistband button is a fundamental part of a jean's engineering.

What is the purpose of buttons on jeans?

You see various metal buttons and studs on jeans and assume they're all the same. But each piece of hardware has a specific name and function that contributes to the garment's overall strength and character.

The primary purpose of buttons and similar hardware on jeans is reinforcement and closure. The main shank button secures the high-tension waistband, fly buttons provide a durable closure, and metal rivets reinforce stress points to prevent tearing.

For a designer like Dean, understanding the specific purpose of each piece of hardware is critical. It's not just decoration; it's functional engineering that dates back to the original patent.

When we build a pair of jeans in the factory, we work with three main types of "button-like" hardware. Each has a distinct job that makes the final product stronger and last longer. Knowing the difference is key to understanding why jeans are constructed the way they are.

Dive Deeper: The Holy Trinity of Denim Hardware

• The Shank Button: This is the large button at the waistband. Its job is to be the main anchor point for the entire garment. It is a two-part component (a tack and the button itself) that clamps onto the fabric, distributing stress over a wide area. It is the strongest closure possible for a denim waistband.

• Fly Buttons: These are the smaller, often flatter buttons used in a button fly. Their job is simply to close the fly placket. They are also typically tacked on for durability, but they handle much less direct tension than the main shank button at the top.

• Rivets: These are not buttons at all, though they look similar. Rivets are small metal studs placed at high-stress points, like the corners of the pockets and the base of the fly. Their only purpose is reinforcement. They prevent the seams from ripping open under strain, which was the core innovation of the original blue jean patent.

Conclusion

Jeans use buttons for strength and tradition. The button fly is a durable, classic choice that creates a unique look, while the main shank button is essential for anchoring the waistband securely.