You love raw denim¹'s authentic story, but you fear the unpredictable shrinkage. One wrong wash by a customer can ruin a perfect fit, destroying your brand's reputation and your bottom line.

The choice depends on your target customer. For denim purists, sell true raw denim with clear instructions to size up. For the mass market, use sanforized denim², which is factory pre-shrunk to guarantee a consistent fit.

I had a young, passionate client once. He was obsessed with the idea of raw denim for his first collection. I warned him that his target customer, who buys from big department stores, might not understand the concept of buying jeans that won't fit after the first wash.

He insisted. Six months later, his inbox was flooded with complaints about shrinkage. That experience taught me my job isn't just to make what's ordered, but to advise on what will actually satisfy the end customer. For a designer like Dean, making this choice correctly is fundamental to a brand's success.

What Shrinkage Differences Exist Between Raw and Sanforized Denim?

You're choosing a fabric but dread explaining shrinkage to customers. It feels like a gamble that creates sizing charts from hell and guarantees a wave of angry returns.

Raw denim can shrink 7-10% in length and 1-2 sizes in the waist. Sanforized denim is machine-shrunk to less than 1% shrinkage, providing a stable, predictable fit from day one.

Understanding the numbers removes the guesswork. Raw denim, also known as "loomstate" fabric, comes straight from the loom with no treatments. The cotton yarns are under tension and full of starch.

The first wash relaxes these yarns, causing significant and irreversible shrinkage. This is what denim purists³ love, as it molds the jean to their body.

But for a general consumer, it's a problem. Sanforized denim solves this. The "sanforization" process runs the raw fabric through a machine with hot rollers and steam blankets.

This process shrinks the fabric in a controlled way before it is ever cut and sewn. The result is a jean that fits the same before and after washing. We confirm this stable performance on every batch we use.

Raw vs. Sanforized: Key Differences

Feature	Raw Denim	Sanforized Denim
Shrinkage Rate	7-10% (significant)	<1% (minimal)
Initial Texture	Stiff, rigid, starchy	Softer, more flexible
Fading Potential	High-contrast, sharp fades	Softer, more uniform fades
Target Customer	Denim enthusiasts, niche market	General consumers, mass market

How Long Is the Break-In Time for Raw Denim They Supply?

Your brand story is about personalized wear and earned fades. But you worry customers will complain that the jeans are too stiff and uncomfortable to even begin that journey.

For our standard 12-14oz raw denim, the break-in period is about 2-3 weeks of regular wear. Heavier fabrics (16oz+) can take over a month to soften and mold.

The "break-in" period is the journey from a stiff, board-like garment to a soft, second skin. This process is all about softening the heavy starch applied at the mill and creasing the fabric in a way that is unique to the wearer's body.

The time it takes depends almost entirely on the fabric's weight. Our most popular raw denim for international brands is in the 12-14oz range. It's substantial enough to produce beautiful fades but not so brutally stiff that it discourages new users.

For more hardcore denim-head brands, we can source heavyweight 16oz, 18oz, or even 21oz fabrics, but we always advise clients that the break-in period for these is longer and more demanding.

As a solution for brands wanting an "easier" raw denim experience, we also offer a "one-wash" service. We give the finished raw jeans a simple cold rinse and hang dry at our factory.

This removes about 80% of the shrinkage and most of the initial stiffness, creating a much more comfortable starting point for the customer without sacrificing the dark indigo color needed for future fading.

Can They Switch Processes Mid-Order?

You want to offer both raw and sanforized options. But you fear this means two separate orders and two massive MOQs, doubling your financial risk and inventory headache.

Yes, we can split a production run to include both raw and sanforized styles. However, this must be planned before we order fabric, as switching fabric after production starts is impossible.

Thinking of this as a "switch" is the wrong approach; thinking of it as a "plan" is the right one. The patterns we use to cut raw denim and sanforized denim are completely different.

For raw denim, we have to cut the pattern larger to account for the future shrinkage—this is called "grading for shrink⁴." If we used a sanforized pattern on raw fabric, the final jean would be tiny.

If we used a raw pattern on sanforized fabric, the jean would be huge. Therefore, once fabric is cut, the path is set. However, we can absolutely accommodate a mixed order if we plan it together.

The Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ)⁵ is usually driven by the fabric mill, which might require a 3,000-meter order per color. We can work with you to split that order, for example, using 2,000 meters of sanforized denim for your main product and 1,000 meters of raw denim for a limited-edition capsule.

This allows you to serve both customer types within a single production framework, saving you time and reducing your overall commitment.

How Do They Certify Sanforization Levels?

You chose sanforized denim for its safety. But you have a nagging fear that the factory cut corners, and you'll still get customer complaints about shrinkage.

We provide an official Mill Test Report⁶ for every batch of sanforized fabric. This document certifies that its shrinkage is under the 1% industry standard, and we conduct our own tests to verify it.

We believe in "trust, but verify." When we order sanforized denim from a reputable mill, it comes with a Mill Test Report. This is our first layer of quality assurance.

This technical document shows the results of standardized laboratory tests (like AATCC 135) where the fabric is washed and dried multiple times, then measured precisely to calculate its "dimensional stability." The report provides hard data showing that both the length (warp) and width (weft) shrinkage are below 1%.

This is our guarantee from the supplier. But we don't stop there. For every single production run, my QC team cuts a 1-meter square from the actual fabric roll, measures it, washes it according to standard procedures, and measures it again.

This in-house test verifies the mill's claim. Only after our own test confirms the <1% shrinkage do we approve the fabric for cutting. We can provide you with a copy of both the mill's report and our internal verification for your records.

Conclusion

The choice between raw and sanforized denim is about knowing your customer. We provide the technical expertise and transparent quality control to perfectly execute either vision for your brand.

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