You have a pair of straight-leg jeans that fit you perfectly but feel a little boring. You love the retro style of bell bottoms¹, but it feels impossible to find a pair that fits just right.

Yes, you can easily turn regular jeans into bell bottoms at home. The process involves opening the inseam or outseam from the knee down and sewing in a triangular piece of fabric² to create the classic flared shape.

In my 20 years running the DiZNEW denim factory, I've seen every jean silhouette imaginable. The difference between a straight leg and a dramatic flare is often just a matter of pattern-making.

It's about adding fabric in the right place to change how the garment drapes. Designers like Dean send me technical sketches, and we turn them into reality. The good news is, you don't need a factory to do this.

I'll show you the basic principles we use so you can make your own custom bell bottoms³.

Can you turn regular jeans into bell bottoms?

You're looking at your old jeans, wondering if it's even possible to change their shape so drastically. You're afraid you'll just end up ruining a perfectly good pair of pants by cutting them up.

Absolutely. The best jeans for this project are straight-leg or bootcut styles that already fit you snugly through the hips and thighs. By carefully slitting a seam and inserting a new fabric panel, you can easily create a true bell bottom flare.

This works so well because you are not changing the most important part of the fit, which is around your hips and thighs.

The core structure of the jean remains the same. You are simply adding volume below the knee. To do this, you have to decide which seam to open: the inseam (inside the leg) or the outseam (outside the leg).

In the factory, this choice is a key design decision. For your home project, it depends on the look you want. Opening the more visible outseam makes a bigger statement, especially if you use a contrasting fabric.

Opening the inseam is a more subtle approach, perfect for when your insert fabric is a close match to your jeans.

Seam to Alter	Visibility	Aesthetic Effect	Best For
Outseam	High	Creates a bold, prominent flare.	Using contrasting fabrics or making a statement.
Inseam	Low	Creates a subtle, more traditional flare shape.	A less noticeable alteration or a first project.

How do I make my jeans into flares?

You're ready to start, but the whole process seems a little complicated. You're looking for a clear, step-by-step guide to make sure you do it right and don't end up with a mess.

First, use a seam ripper to open the inseam or outseam from the hem up to your knee. Next, cut a triangular fabric panel to fit the opening. Pin the panel in place, then sew it securely with a sewing machine.

This is the central part of the project. Let’s break it down into simple steps, just like we would when making a new sample in the workshop.

1. Mark and Open: Put on the jeans and use a piece of chalk to mark where you want the flare to begin, usually just below your knee. Take the jeans off and use a seam ripper to carefully open the seam from the bottom hem all the way up to your mark. A seam ripper is much cleaner than scissors.

2. Create Your Panel: Measure the length of the opening. This is the height of your triangle. Decide how wide you want the bell to be at the bottom; this is the base of your triangle. Cut out your fabric triangle, adding about a half-inch on each side for a seam allowance.

3. Pin and Sew: Lay the jean leg flat. Place your fabric panel into the opening, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Carefully pin it along one edge of the opening. Sew that seam. Then, pin and sew the other side. A sewing machine is highly recommended here, as denim is a thick fabric.

4. Finish the Hem: Once the panel is securely attached, you'll have a new, wider leg opening. Try on the jeans to check the length, then sew a new hem along the bottom to create a clean finish.

How can I make my own bell bottom pants look good?

You've got the basic technique, but you want your finished pants to look like a cool, custom piece, not a clumsy DIY project. You want them to have style and a professional finish.

Elevate your project by choosing interesting fabrics for the insert panels. Consider a vintage floral print⁴, corduroy, or a different shade of denim. Adding decorative topstitching⁵ along the new seams also creates a polished, intentional look.

This is where you get to be the designer. The insert panel is your canvas. When my clients want a unique product, it’s all about these creative details. First, think about your fabric.

Using a panel from another old pair of jeans gives a cool, patched-together look. Using something completely different, like corduroy or a bold patterned fabric, completely changes the personality of the jeans.

The second key to a professional look is the stitching. After you sew the panel in, go back over the seams on the outside with a topstitch.

Use a thick thread, like the classic gold color used on most jeans, to make the new seams look strong and intentional.

Finally, consider the hem. You can create a clean, double-folded hem for a sharp look, or you can leave the bottom edge raw for a more frayed, bohemian vibe.

Customization Idea	Description	Level of Difficulty
Contrasting Fabric	Use a panel of floral, paisley, corduroy, or leather.	Easy
Denim on Denim	Use a panel from another pair of jeans in a lighter or darker wash.	Easy
Decorative Topstitch	Add a visible line of stitching along the new seams in a bold color.	Medium
Frayed Hem	Leave the bottom hem raw and let it fray naturally.	Easy

What body type looks best in bell bottoms?

You love the style, but you're worried bell bottoms won't look good on you. You’re not sure if they will flatter your particular body shape or how you should wear them for the best effect.

Bell bottoms are famously flattering on many body types because they create a balanced hourglass silhouette. They work especially well for pear shapes by balancing the hips and for tall figures by accentuating length. The key is a snug fit on the thigh.

In fashion design, it all comes down to creating pleasing proportions. The bell bottom is a master of this. The wide flare at the bottom of the leg provides a visual counterweight to your hips and thighs.

This is why it’s so flattering on figures where the hips are wider than the shoulders. The shape draws the eye down and creates a beautiful, balanced line. For those with shorter legs, a high-waisted bell bottom⁶ is a fantastic trick.

When worn with heels or platform shoes, the unbroken line from the high waist all the way to the floor can make your legs look incredibly long. The single most important rule, no matter your body type, is that the jeans must be fitted through your hips and thighs.

If they are loose all over, you lose the silhouette and the balancing effect is gone.

Conclusion

Turning a pair of straight-leg jeans⁷ into custom bell bottoms is a simple and creative project. By adding a fabric panel, you can give old denim new life and create a unique style.

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