You see denim and leather¹ as timeless classics. But which material has a longer history in clothing? The answer might surprise you and redefine your idea of "old."

Leather came first by a massive margin. Humans have used animal hides for clothing for tens of thousands of years. Denim, a specific type of cotton twill fabric, was invented in the 18th century, with blue jeans appearing in 1873.

The story of these two materials is fascinating. Leather is a story of ancient survival, while denim is a story of modern industry and rebellion. It's a common question I get from designers who are looking to place their own creations in the long history of fashion.

I've spent my life working with denim at my factory, DiZNEW, and understanding its history helps us appreciate why both materials continue to be so loved. Let's dig deeper into denim's specific journey.

When were denims invented?

You think of jeans as an American invention from the Gold Rush. But the fabric's roots go back further and across the ocean, which can be confusing.

The fabric "denim" originated in Nîmes, France, in the 18th century as a rugged cotton twill called "serge de Nîmes." The iconic blue jeans, however, were patented in the United States by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis in 1873.

I love this part of the history. The fabric itself is European. It was a sturdy cotton twill made in the French city of Nîmes. The name "denim²" is just a shortened version of "de Nîmes," which means "from Nîmes." People used this material for work clothes because it was tough. But the garment we call "jeans" is purely American.

The story goes that a tailor named Jacob Davis in Nevada started putting metal rivets on the stress points of work pants. This made them much stronger for miners. He didn't have the money to patent the idea himself.So he wrote to his fabric supplier in San Francisco, a man named Levi Strauss³.Together, they got the patent on May 20, 1873. That is the official birthday of the blue jean.

So while the fabric has European roots, the invention of jeans as we know them is a classic American story of innovation meeting a practical need.

What came before denim?

Before denim became the go-to workwear fabric, what did people use? It's hard to imagine a world without it. What materials were just as tough?

Before denim, workers wore trousers made from other durable fabrics like canvas, wool, and heavy cotton duck⁴. These materials were strong and available but lacked the unique combination of comfort and ruggedness that made denim so popular.

It is easy to think denim has always been the king of workwear, but that is not the case. For centuries, the standard was wool. It was warm, durable, and naturally water-resistant.

In America, especially in the 19th century, another popular material was canvas⁵, specifically cotton duck. Canvas is a plain-weave fabric, which is different from denim's twill weave, but it is incredibly tough. Think of old ship sails or tents. That is the kind of material workers used. It was strong but also very stiff and not very comfortable. These fabrics did their job. They did not have denim's special quality.

Denim had the strength, but because of the twill weave⁶ and how it is dyed, it gets softer and more comfortable with every wash. It molds to the wearer's body. This unique combination of toughness and comfort is what allowed denim to eventually replace those other materials and become the global standard.

Are jeans made out of leather?

The words "jeans" and "leather" are often used together in fashion. This might make you wonder if the original garments were actually made of leather¹, or if the materials were mixed.

No, jeans have always been made from cotton denim fabric. The connection to leather comes from the small patch on the back of the waistband. The iconic Levi's "Two Horse" patch was made of leather to signify the pants' strength.

This question comes from the strong cultural link between cowboys, leather, and jeans. But the garments themselves are completely different materials. Jeans are a woven plant-based fabric made from cotton.Leather is a processed animal hide. They were never made from leather. The confusion comes entirely from the details. The most famous detail is the leather patch. Levi Strauss & Co. introduced their leather patch in 1886. It showed two horses trying to pull a pair of jeans apart.

This was a brilliant piece of marketing to show how strong the pants were. This patch became so iconic that people still associate the look of jeans with that little piece of leather. Also, cowboys, who became symbols of the American West, often wore leather chaps over their denim jeans for extra protection while riding. The two materials worked together, but the jeans themselves were always cotton.

Is denim old-fashioned?

Denim has been around for over 150 years. You might see it as a classic but worry that it's stuck in the past and is no longer an innovative fabric.

Absolutely not. While its history is long, denim is constantly being reinvented. Modern denim uses new fiber blends for stretch and comfort, advanced washing techniques⁷ for unique looks, and sustainable practices. It is one of the most dynamic fabrics in fashion.

As someone who works with denim every day, I can tell you it is anything but old-fashioned. It is one of the most innovative areas in textiles. The core idea of a cotton twill fabric is the same, but everything around it has evolved. We now blend cotton with Tencel™ for incredible softness, or with high-tech recycled polyesters for better shape retention. My specialty is washing, and the techniques we use today are worlds away from the past.

We use lasers to create intricate fade patterns, ozone treatments to reduce water usage, and new enzymes that create unique textures without damaging the fabric.Designers like Dean are constantly pushing me to create something new, a wash that no one has seen before.

From its start as purely functional workwear in the 1930s to a global fashion staple today, denim has become a canvas for incredible artistry and technical innovation. It is always looking forward.

Conclusion

Leather is an ancient material of survival. Denim's journey from 19th-century workwear to a modern fashion staple is a story of constant innovation. It remains a timeless and ever-evolving fabric.

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